New Orleans

From the Bayou Country to Esplanade Avenue

New Orleans has got soul – there is no doubt in that. It is, my opinion, one of the most unique cities in our country, with no shortage of spirit, French influences and inexplicable southern sophistication. And anyone that has followed C&C for a while knows how much I adore the city's sentiments and my own family history it has played host to. A celebratory weekend trip presented an opportunity to visit a once-treasured hotel deeply tied to my family's Louisiana lineage... My Great Grandparents, Edward and Gertrude Munson, owned Glenwood, a sugar plantation estate where they entertained and delighted guests with their southern graces in the form of dinner parties, stately accommodations and infamous café brûlot. They were an elegant, intoxicating couple and the pace of life at Glenwood, just west of New Orleans, was slow and seducing.  Described as "an atmosphere of romantic charm and beauty" on a vintage postcard (below), the property was encapsulated by mossy oaks, scents of magnolia and pecan trees. My Great Grandmother Gertrude, dubbed as "Miss Gertrude" was just as enchanting and bewitching, as evidenced in a profile piece in the 1955 installment of Reader's Digest titled "The Most Unforgettable Character I've Met" (read here).  

"But those who love the scent of sweet olive and mimosa, or the Louis Philippe rose, or the old ways of the South, succumb to Glenwood's spell."

- Reader's Digest, 1955.

Despite the magic "spell" that captivated the plantation for decades, a series of events occurred forever changing Gertrude's famed Glenwood. Tragically, after the war, the cane-growing business took a hit and the mosaic disease destroyed a great deal of crops. Just in time, my Great Grandmother Gertrude triumphantly saved the plantation by allowing guests to come stay at the plantation for a fee. An ad was discreetly placed, stating:

"Louisiana couple living in their ancestral mansion will take winter guests; fine food; informal atmosphere." 

Of those winter guests was one of the most celebrated - Louise Crane (of Crane & Co. Stationary). Louise had stayed at Glenwood for several months at a time, and became dear friends with my Great Grandmother Gertrude. Even more dismally, after Glenwood was revitalized, the plantation burnt to the ground. This, understandably, left my Great Grandparents in a state of uncertainty and instability far from their days of opulence. Around this time, a tender invitation by Louise Crane was made, welcoming my Great Grandparents to help manage her newly acquired hotel in the French Quarter of New Orleans. The Lamothe House Hotel, on Esplanade Avenue was the beginning of their life in New Orleans.

For many years, the hotel served as a southern sanctuary, with an enchanting garden in the exterior courtyard. Instructions to "wire, write or telephone" to make a reservation appear in this advertisement. 

My Great Grandparents worked fastidiously with Louise to create a hotel that provided their guests with the same level of graciousness as Glenwood. The hotel was a passion project of sorts, and one that my family was deeply attached to. It saw a great deal of success in the early days with cheerful guests coming and going, and frequently profiled in press and publications for its charming accommodations.

The Lamothe House Hotel, on the cover of Southern Living's March 1981 issue.

For years growing up, my sister and I would hear tales of the famed Lamothe House and our connection to the south. My Father was even at one point a bell boy! Our first introduction to the hotel was during a family stay in our younger years, where memories of the fish pond in the enclosed garden and a narrow, dimly lit hall with its perimeter lined in antique mirrors and marble-top consoles lived in my young mind. While this was our first introduction, we were perhaps too young to truly savor the overall experience in the crescent city.

Last weekend, joined by my sister again -  now twenty years later from our initial visit - we meandered over to Esplanade Avenue to revisit The Lamothe House. We couldn't help feel a bit removed from the history and saddened by seeing that aesthetically, the hotel had seemingly lost a great deal of its southern stature. Its tall french shutters were slightly tattered, and that narrow hall I had recalled felt lonely and lost in the era of Miss Gertrude and Louise. In the courtyard, a gardener was fastening a potted hibiscus to a trellis, while young women lounged poolside. While there were young patrons and evidence of new life, it seemed to linger in a former sentiment. In my mind, as we roamed around, I refused to accept the present, still holding on to the bygone era of those that shaped its place in New Orleans, the life Miss Gertrude, Louise Crane and the other characters helped cultivate. It is for these stories I will forever remain connected to New Orleans.

To read more on Miss Gertrude and Glenwood Plantation, visit here.

The Lamothe House Hotel, June 2017. 

A New Orleans Moment

Screen Shot 2015-01-15 at 10.13.21 AM Screen Shot 2015-01-15 at 10.13.33 AM Screen Shot 2015-01-15 at 10.13.46 AMI've got New Orleans on the brain. The line-up for the annual Jazz Fest was announced just a few days ago which seems to get more impressive each year (Elton John! Dr. John! Trombone Shorty! Allen Toussaint! Chicago!). Suddenly, I find myself craving the strawberry bourbon cocktails we concocted in the parking lot before last year's shows. This morning, with the aid of my favorite NOLA expatriate, we sent off a list of restaurants to a dear friend and I'm salivating just thinking about the lunch shenanigans at Galatoire's, hurricanes on Bourbon Street and shrimp and grits at La Petite Grocery. Since I'm having a New Orleans moment, I revisited my archive of homes and interiors in the crescent city. Above, designer Sara Ruffin Costello showcased her New Orleans home in Domino Magazine back in May 2013. The home she found with her hubby on holiday and was the catalyst for leaving New York. I love the moody wall colors, mix of antique pieces with the velvet sofa and the collection of shot-guns rested against the fireplace. The ornate chandelier is lovely, drawing attention to the 14 foot ceiling.

See more, here and if you continue to have the south on the brain like, moi, read about my Great Grandmother, 'The Most Unforgettable Character I've Met' published in 1955 in Reader's Digest.

'Party Like a Southerner'

Party-Like-a-Southerner-The-Social-Garden-700One of the very first stops I make when I'm in New Orleans is Leontine Linens on Magazine Street. Jane Scott Hodges' shop is an absolute jewel box full of beautiful, finely crafted monogrammed linens. Each piece is cut and sewn by an artisan to the specification of the client and with an array of intricate stitches, you will swoon at the mere sight of such couture. There is something just so wonderfully old-fashioned about coveting these pieces in an everyday modern fashion. Perhaps it's a modern nod for keeping the old-world romance alive. In Garden & Gun's October/November issue, they point to Jane Scott Hodges who makes a case for the garden landscape as the main stage for celebrations. Above, is the home of her Aunt, Ruthie Frierson, an avid gardener and a well respected activist in the New Orleans community. The women and their families have enjoyed many parties among the greenery and Jane insists that enjoying the outdoors is quite often more desirable than hosting indoors: “There’s a freedom to entertaining in an unconfined environment, in discovering lily pads and vines instead of appreciating furniture or finery,” she says. “It allows for an intimacy you can’t have in a living room.”

Jane's new book, 'Linens for Every Room and Occasion' was released last spring and remains on my list of must-haves for my expanding collection of coffee table books. leon1 leon2 leon3 leon4 leon5

THE BOSS

Bruce-Springsteen1I'm off to one of my most favorite places for a few days of boogie & good old-fashioned New Orleans fun with friends. I'm looking forward to especially seeing Bruce Springsteen, Alabama Shakes, The Head and the Heart, Arcade Fire, Trombone Shorty, and more, play at Jazz Fest.  I'm so ready to unplug - bring it, NOLA! C&C will be back up and running next week.